Art Deco and Italian Pride

In the time between World War I and World War II, an artistic movement known as the Novecento was born in Italy. Artists of the Novecento looked back nostalgically at the values and lifestyle of pre-war Italy, while dreaming of an Italy that would once again be a world power.

Leonetto Cappiello was one such artist. A sought after caricaturist and cartoonist living in Paris before the war, Cappiello returned to Italy, became a part of the Novecento and helped to create Italian Art Deco. One of the first and greatest Italian Art Deco poster artists, Cappiello took on every commission as an opportunity to espouse his Novecento beliefs and promote Italy. His posters, though streamlined and simple, often contain subtle underlying meanings.

In Florio Cinzano, an advertisement for two Italian liquors, Cappiello depicts two zebras leaping across the page in front of a bottle of Florio and a bottle of Cinzano. One of the zebras is depicted in traditional black and white while the other is depicted in bold orange and red. This is the first time an animal is depicted in imaginary colors in the history of western art, and Cappiello depicted the zebra this way for a reason.

As a Novecento artist, Cappiello wanted to create art in his own unique style. Yet unlike his French contemporaries, he did not want to do so at the expense of his nation’s artistic legacy. The black and white zebra represents Italy’s past, glorious and beautiful. The orange and red zebra represents Italy’s future, based on the past, yet new and different.

Another classic Cappiello poster is Isolabella. In this work, Cappiello took the Arlechino figure from the Commedia Dell’Arte and transformed him into a sleek and sensual woman. This woman is almost mystical and commands a line of liquor bottles to swirl around her.

Each bottle can be taken to represent a contribution the Italian people have made to western civilization. The woman, a modern reincarnation of a Renaissance figure, showcases Italy’s many contributions. But she does so with her hand over her breast, in a gesture of humility. She wants no credit for her contributions but no one can deny their existence.

Cappiello would go on to create over 1,000 posters in the Italian Art Deco style throughout his career. His influence can be seen in a generation of Italian and European artists. As the style he helped to create became more commercialized, he took commissions from French firms as well as Italian companies. But it was his work for the nation of Italy that was so groundbreaking and inspirational as to earn the respect and admiration of his peers and art critics. That respect and admiration continues to this day, which is why Leonetto Cappiello is a master Italian artist.

Rocchetta Alta Langha

In the world of cheese, international bragging rights are almost always nothing more than conjecture. The French claim to produce the best washed-rind (smelly) cheeses, but Taleggio, Vacherin Mont d’Or and La Serena are legitimate points of contention by the Italians, Swiss and Spanish. The British will argue that the Cheddars of Somerset have no equal, but Americans are correct in their claim that this is strictly a matter of taste. And we, the United States of America, have what is almost certainly the best collection of blues in the world. But is our top blue better than Cabrales, Roquefort, Stilton or Gorgonzola? Who can say for sure?

Amongst all of these outlandish claims, one stands out as an absolute fact: the Italians are superior in the art of blending milk. The irony of this statement cannot be lost: Italian cheese makers began to blend milks strictly out of necessity. In the mountainous terrain of the Piedmont, if a cheese maker was short on cow milk, he would have no choice but to add sheep or goat milk to meet his quota. Making the most of a bleak situation, the Piedmontese cheese makers experimented with ratios, and soon developed outstanding, fresh robiolas.

One of Italy’s premier producers, Caseificio dell’Alta Langha, has proven that the simplest solution is usually the best. Their award-winning robiola, Rocchetta Alta Langha, is equal parts cow, goat and sheep milk, and clearly accents the best that each milk has to offer. Rocchetta offers the richness and creaminess of cow milk, that light, acidic tang of goat milk, and the slight salt finish of the finest Italian sheep milk. These qualities alone would result in a superbly complex flavor, but the Caseificio takes it one step further. After the milks are blended in a vat, they are allowed to “ripen” overnight at room temperature. Un-chilled, flavorful (and healthy) bacteria multiply quickly, so that pasteurization does not interfere with the quality of the milk.

The effect Rocchetta has on your taste buds is matched only by the effect it has on your eyes. At two weeks of age, it has developed a beautiful bloomy rind that will leave any caseophile salivating in anticipation of the first bite. It does not disappoint. Texturally, it is billowy-soft and breathtakingly smooth. In compliance with the Piedmontese definition of “good cheese,” Rocchetta is earthy, with notes of mushroom and a hint of sourness akin to crème fraîche. It is one of the most frequently requested cheeses at DiBruno Brothers.

Because of its complex flavor, Rocchetta pairs well with many foods and drinks. DiBruno Brothers sells a Fig and Balsamic Jam that pair with Rocchetta as well as jelly does to peanut butter, and any quality honey drizzled atop Rocchetta will undoubtedly please. A vast variety of wines work as well: complex reds like Tempranillo or Pinot Noir, crisp whites or, if your serving it after dinner, a dry Prosecco. Beyond that, little is needed other than a loaf of bread and a loved one.

This article was written by Hunter Fike, a Cheese Specialist at DiBruno Brother's House of Cheese. DiBruno Brother’s House of Cheese have been culinary pioneers in Philadelphia since 1939 and have locations in the Italian Market, Rittenhouse Square and online at www.dibruno.com.

Prosecco - The Italian Sparkling White Wine

Wine is meant to be enjoyed and few wines are more enjoyable during these hot summer months than Prosecco. Italy’s answer to Champagne, Prosecco is a sparkling white wine that has just recently burst upon the American wine scene. Like any trend, there are some producers of Prosecco who have capitalized on the sudden popularity of the wine and mass produce garbage and peddle it to the market. Don’t let that deter you from drinking Prosecco. A little knowledge is all you need to uncover a world of delightful, affordable Italian sparkling wines.

Italian wines are traditionally named after the region where they are produced. Just as we refer to tomatoes grown in South Jersey as “Jersey Tomatoes”, so to do the Italians refer to their wines by the location of their farm. However Prosecco is a little different.

Prosecco is the name of the white grape variety that produces Prosecco wine. Under European law, only wines made from Prosecco grapes grown in the Conegliano or Valdobbiadene region of Veneto can be sold as Prosecco. That doesn’t mean that some unscrupulous producers don’t cheat and mislabel their product. So, when shopping for Prosecco, look for the words “Prosecco di Conegliano – Valdobbiadene”, “Prosecco di Conegliano” or “Prosecco di Valdobbiadene” on the label.

By buying only Prosecco wines that are labeled as being from these regions, you are greatly improving the odds of purchasing an enjoyable sparkling white wine. Although it should be noted that wine is a living, natural creation and as such, there are no guarantees. So don’t let one bad bottle of wine spoil your attitude towards that wine.

Now that we have successfully navigated our way through the Prosecco aisle at the local liquor store and avoided buying poorly made wine masquerading as Prosecco, it’s time to enjoy the quality bottle of wine you have purchased. One of the best ways to enjoy wine is to know what you are drinking. So, before you open that bottle of Prosecco made in the Conegliano or Valdobbiadene region of Veneto, let me tell you a little about this delicious, refreshing, sparkling wine.

Prosecco, unlike Champage, is young and fresh. Best consumed within the first three years of production, Prosecco is dry and sparkling and very vibrant. There is no “dusty bitterness” that often accompanies Champagne. In fact, some Prosecco even tastes sweet and even a dry Prosecco has overtones of lemon, melon, almonds or honey.

In Venice, Prosecco is served strictly as an appertivo to be consumed before dinner in order to awaken your taste buds. It was in Venice that Prosecco was first combined with fresh peach juice to create the Bellini cocktail, the signature drink of the Venetians. Due to the popularity of the Bellini, many other Prosecco based cocktails have been invented. The Puccini features Prosecco wine and the juice of fresh tangerines. The Mimosa features Prosecco wine and the juice of fresh blood oranges. The Sgroppino features Prosecco wine, vodka and lemon sorbetto.

For the record, it should be noted that the original Prosecco cocktail, the Bellini was invented at Harry’s Bar in Venice and was named after a Renaissance painter, not the opera composer. Giuseppe Cipriani, the head bartender at Harry’s, saw the pinkish color of the cocktail and was reminded of a toga in a painting by Giovanni Bellini. This cocktail, and the bar that invented it, was popular with such luminaries as Ernest Hemingway, Sinclair Lewis and Orson Wells.

Although Prosecco based cocktails are extremely popular, don’t limit yourself to just Posecco cocktails. While Prosecco is great for mixing, it is made for sipping on its own, accompanying seafood or antipasto or as an appertivo. Now that you know what to look for when you shop and what to taste for when you drink, the time has come to actually enjoy your wine. After all, that’s what wine is there for!

Vendemmia 2007 Tickets Available

For Tickets, call 215.551.3859.

When about 300 people gathered together to eat porchetta and drink homemade wine in the courtyard of St. Agnes Hospital over ten years ago, we thought that this was a great one time event. If you had told us then that the Vendemmia Festival would grow to become an annual event with over 5,000 people attending, there is no way we would have believed you. But that is exactly what has happened.

A year after the first Vendemmia Festival, we were planning a second and bigger Vendemmia Festival and the event has grown and gotten better with each passing year. One of the best improvements we have made was moving the festival to Girard Park. For the past few years, we have held the Vendemmia Festival in this beautiful park, located in the heart of the Girard Estates neighborhood.

Despite the wonderful memories we made in Girard Park over the past few years, the time has come for us to move to a new location in order to make the festival better. The new location will still be out in South Philly. The new location will still feature beautiful, natural surroundings. But unlike Girard Park, the new location will be on paved ground, so no one will trip over a tree root. The new location will be more spacious so everyone will have a little more room to move. And the new location will allow us to offer more off street parking.

The new location is a great opportunity to continue to improve the Vendemmia Festival. The only problem is that the new location does not have a name. Located in Packer Park, the new location is nestled between Broad Street, 20th Street, Hartranft Street and Pattison Avenue. The entrance to the new location is found on Pattison Avenue, just across the street from the entrance to FDR Park. But if you walk out of Holy Spirit Church on Hartranft Street, you can see the new location through the wrought iron fence.

Having a festival in a location without a name is a difficult thing to do. Where do you tell people you are going? I say that we name this location Vendemmia Square. Why? Because this year’s Vendemmia Festival is going to be so wonderful that we’re going to put this location on the map.

I’m confident that this year’s Vendemmia Festival will be the best ever because we won’t be changing much beyond the location. Bob Pantano is going to put together another stellar lineup of live entertainment. The best home wine makers are again going to compete for the top honors. And some of the most amazing restaurants and specialty shops are once again going to provide samples of their food.

But most importantly, you’ll be there. You and your friends and your family will drive south on Broad Street on the morning of September 30th with a car full of food. You’ll turn right on Pattison Avenue and pull into Vendemmia Square, excited to celebrate under the South Philly sun. And you’ll join more than 5,000 people who have gathered together to celebrate along with you.

In the end, that is what makes the Vendemmia so special, it’s the reason why people keep coming back year after year. It’s the community. You arrive with your family and friends and instantly become a part of a larger family. We eat together. We drink together. We sing and we dance together. We celebrate as family, one large South Philly Italian family. And so it is with great anticipation that I look forward to seeing everyone get together for another wonderful Vendemmia Festival.

It's More Than Just Italian Ice Cream

When the scorching summer sun comes to town, Philadelphians have traditionally reached for an ice-cold cup of water ice to cool off. And while water ice continues to be a popular summertime treat, there is a new summer specialty in town and its name is gelato.

The name may sound familiar to you. In our region, alternating layers of water ice and soft serve ice cream have been sold as “gelati” for years. This “gelati” bears little resemblance to the true Italian gelato that is slowly establishing itself as one of Philly’s favorite foods.

True Italian gelato is like ice cream, with a few major differences. First, gelato is never served frozen solid the way ice cream is. When you eat a spoon full of frozen ice cream, the first thing you taste is cold. Only after the ice cream melts in your mouth do you get to appreciate the flavor. With gelato, it is always served a little melted so that you taste the flavor of the gelato the moment it touches your tongue.

Second, unlike ice cream, no air is infused into gelato. Ice cream is made with up to 40% air, making the cream lighter but also diluting the flavor. Gelato is made without the infusion of air, making a denser, more flavorful dessert.

Despite being denser, gelato is much lower in fat than ice cream. This may seem hard to believe, but it is true. Gelato has less fat than ice cream! Even still, gelato is a very heavy treat, which is why it is traditionally served with tiny plastic shovels and not big spoons. Gelato is not to be eaten in mass quantities like a glutton but enjoyed slowly like a connoisseur.

In order to enjoy good gelato, you must find a good gelateria, which is the Italian name for a store that specializes in selling gelato. A good gelateria makes their own gelato, using only the highest quality and freshest ingredients. In Philadelphia, we are lucky to have two gelato masters among us, in addition to a handful of very good gelaterias.

The gelato masters are Stephanie Reitano of Capogiro and Pietro D’Abbraccio of Café Toscano. Both Reitano and D’Abbraccio learned their craft back in Italy and offer Philadelphians true Italian gelato. By using top quality, fresh ingredients, both Reitano and D’Abbraccio create a cold, creamy treat that is simply stunning.

Stephanie Reitano of Capogiro is the current darling of the Philadelphia food world. Not only is she a true artisan but whenever possible she uses locally grown ingredients in her gelato, bringing well deserved respect to our locally grown fruits and vegetables. In addition, her husband John runs the Capogiro business with the style and vision of a major corporation. Their two locations in Philadelphia offer visitors a stylish retreat from the bustle of the busy day while serving up one of the most deliciously cool treats in town.

Over at Café Toscano, Pietro D’Abbraccio makes more traditional flavors such as Baba Rum and Panna Cotta and sells them to tourists just around the corner from the Liberty Bell. Unfortunately, many Philadelphians deliberately avoid the traffic and congestion near the Liberty Bell, which means they miss out on D'Abbraccio's hand crafted gelato. With any luck, D'Abbraccio will be opening a new location in South Philadelphia, making his gelato available to those who live in Philadelphia, not just to those who visit.

Both Capogiro and Café Toscano are huge additions to Philadelphia’s food scene, but they aren’t the only places in town where gelato is sold. Traditional cafes such as Café Varallo and Anthony’s Italian Coffee House make gelato available in the summer months, as do the DiBruno Brothers in Center City. Across the region, other gelaterias keep opening up and every year brings new artisans to the scene.

If you are unfamiliar with gelato or haven’t tasted it since your last trip to Italy, stop by Capogiro or Café Toscano or one of the city’s other gelaterias. Savor the fresh, creamy flavors. Appreciate the skill that went into making each batch. But most of all enjoy a unique and delicious treat that we’re lucky to have in our area.